The Role of Crash Pads
In the exhilarating world of bouldering, where climbers push the limits of vertical ascent without ropes, safety is paramount. Highball bouldering, defined by its taller routes that challenge even the most seasoned climbers, introduces a unique set of risks and considerations. Here, the humble crash pad emerges as a pivotal tool, offering both protection and peace of mind.
Understanding Highball Climbing
Highball bouldering refers to routes that exceed typical bouldering heights (up to 4 meters), often ranging from 5 to 8 meters or more. Unlike lower boulders, falls from these heights can lead to serious injury if not properly mitigated even if the climber lands on a pad. While spotters, crash pads, and preparation help, the highball climber carries the burden of falling safely.
- They must control their body in the air
- They must fall correctly to reduce injury risk
- They must stay mentally strong when climbing high above pads.
Highballing is a serious challenge—but for those who master the fall, it’s one of the purest and most rewarding forms of bouldering. As climbers venture higher, the need for reliable crash pad systems becomes indispensable.
Types of Crash Pads
Crashpads, the unsung heroes of bouldering, are specialized mats designed to cushion falls. Composed of multiple layers of foam, these pads absorb impact forces, significantly reducing the risk of injury upon landing. There are mainly two types of foam that are both used in bouldering crash pads:
- Open cell foam, or polyurethane foam, which has small cells that are not completely sealed and allow air to fill the space or take on water if soaked. This means the foam can be easily compressed and then naturally recover back to its original shape. It dissipates impact forces by compressing deeply, slowing down the climber’s fall in a controlled manner.
- Closed cell foam, consists of tightly packed, sealed air pockets, making it firm and less compressible. It spreads out the impact over a larger area before the force reaches the softer open-cell layer. Its role is preventing bottoming out from high falls, adding structure to the pad, and providing a stable landing surface.
They are available in various sizes and thicknesses to cater to different climbing scenarios:
- Normal Height Crashpads: This should be the pad(s) of first choice since it will provide descent cushioning for the majority of climbs. Ideal for mid-range boulders, typically up to 4 meters, these pads strike a balance between size and portability. They offer sufficient coverage while remaining manageable for transportation to and from climbing sites. A typical dimension is 90 x 120 cm (open) with a thickness of 10 cm.
- Small Sit Pads: Compact and lightweight, sit pads are designed for targeted protection. They are perfect for protecting the start of routes and they can also be used for protection where thicker pads are an obstacle. A typical dimension is 60 x 90 cm with a thickness of 7-8 cm.
- Highball Crashpads: These are the largest and thickest mats, engineered to cover expansive landing zones. High-density & quality foam cores provide optimal shock absorption, crucial for softening the impact of high falls. Typical dimensions of these pads are 120 x 150 cm with a thickness of 12-13 cm.
Choosing the Right Crash Pad
Selecting the appropriate crashpad depends on several factors:
- Thickness: Thicker pads 12-13 cm are suitable for highball routes to absorb significant impact. Thinner pads (7-8 cm) are adequate for lower climbs but may require additional stacking for highballs.
- Size: Consider the dimensions of the landing zone. Larger pads provide better coverage and safety for highballs, while smaller pads suffice for narrower landings or supplementary protection
- Portability: Ease of transportation is crucial. Look for pads with carrying systems (like shoulder straps or backpack-style designs) for comfortable portage to remote climbing locations.
Conclusion
In the dynamic realm of highball bouldering, where adrenaline meets precision, crashpads serve as essential guardians against the risks of gravity. Whether tackling towering cliffs or navigating smaller challenges, the right crash pad ensures that climbers can push their limits safely. By understanding their role and choosing wisely, every ascent becomes a calculated adventure in the pursuit of vertical mastery.
